Woke up at 6:00, didn’t sleep too well because some people came back to their rooms around midnight and woke me up. If I had known the room numbers I would have knocked as we went down to breakfast.
Had toast, cereal, coffee and juice, a quick one, then checked out and over the road to the bus station for the 7 hour journey to Sarajevo. Apparently there used to be a train but it stopped running a few years ago due to lack of patronage.
The weather was a lot better, a bit cold but sunny – unlucky for us, but we can’t help the weather.
Bus left on time, then drove through flat countryside on the freeway, more abandoned and half finished buildings. We then turned off and drove along back roads for about 3 hours before arriving at border control.
As soon as we were in Bosnia Herzegovina the scenery changed to granite hills, and we drove around a very picturesque lake and along a river with the hills all around, then through small towns and villages. Most people seemed to have small fields growing crops. Saw some houses with bullet holes in them, but not as many as I expected.
The bus stopped several times on the way, and it was quite relaxing to watch the scenery go by, read and watch some stuff I’d downloaded.
The bus started to climb, and we were treated to a spectacular view of the town where we’d just stopped and the hills we’d driven through. Are this stage we still had about 3 hours to go.
Kept going up along a winding road, magnificent views over the hills, the sun breaking through the clouds.
We went up quite a way, even saw some patches of snow, then started to descend the other side. We passed and few small farms and settlements as well as an abandoned ski resort, the chair lift mechanism rusted and in pieces.
Carried on down, Song and I both had a snooze, then we entered another gorge, more huge cliffs and a river. All along the way was rubbish at the side of the road; plastic bags, bottles, cans etc. We’ve seen this in virtually all the East European countries and it’s really depressing, they just dump it and don’t care.
We went through a few tunnels and then saw the outskirts of Sarajevo. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a more impressive welcome to a place. We were above the thousands of red roofed houses, some on rock outcrops, laid out in the valleys in between the hills and on the hillsides. Poking up from among the houses were dozens of minarets of mosques. It really was an amazing sight.
Drove along and now there were lots of houses with the pock marks of bullet holes.
Arrived at the bus station which was quite a way out of the main town and from our hotel. Popped to a shopping centre to get some cash – this is the fourth country and the forth different currency. Found an ATM – ‘transaction could not be completed’. Tried a different card – ‘transaction could not be completed’. Hmmm. Tried the last card and it worked.
Hopped in a taxi and 10 minutes later he dropped us off, pointed over the road and said ‘1 minute’. Turned out it was 10 minutes and he charged us $14 and I think ripped us off, but what can you do?
Walked through the old part of the city, past a few mosques and loads of restaurants, and it was packed. Lots of tourists as well, heard American accents and German.
Got to the hotel which was actually a guest house and up a side street away from the main road. It wasn’t very nice. It was someone’s house, so basically a bed and breakfast. The room was small, but clean and the bathroom was modern.
The owner advised that there is no water between midnight and 06:00, something to do with the Sarajevo water supply. Wonderful.
Left the house and found the quick way to the main part of the old town and it was buzzing. Loads of people about, and the weather was perfect, sunny and about 22c.
Walked down the main street, passed about 4 mosques, lots of cafes and ice cream shops so naturally I had to have one. 2 scoops for $1.44.
Started to feel a bit hungry so looked for a restaurant – almost all were cafes or barbecue places. We found one place that was on the main strip but was empty, but there didn’t seem to be much choice so we thought we’d give it a go. The menu was mainly meat but they did do fish. I ordered trout, Song ordered tripe. Got the wifi password and checked the restaurant on TripAdvisor. Number 253 out of 320 in Sarajevo. Oh dear. The meal was very average. After the meal the waiter came up and asked ‘Is good?’ ‘Barely edible’ I replied, smiling. ‘Completely bland and tasteless’ I said, nodding. It cost about $25.
We left the restaurant, and it was now quite chilly. Still lots of people around. First impressions of Sarajevo were good – a lot cleaner and less grey than Belgrade and Sofia, more tourists, nicer shops and a good vibe. Went back to the hotel and watched TV, full day in Sarajevo tomorrow.
