Woke around 07:00, checked out but left the bags. An absolutely perfect day. Sun shining, not a cloud in the sky, 22c. Decided to walk around the walls instead of breakfast, opting to have brunch later.
The walk cost twice as much as 5 years ago, $30 each, but is a must-do.
A bunch of Japanese women pushed past us and monopolised the photo spots so we let them go and just enjoyed the view for a while. From the top of the entrance to the wall you look across a small inlet with some small rocks and crystal clear water to a small fort on an outcrop. Look into the town and you get a marvellous view of the red tiled roofs of the tightly packed houses and a few churches.
Carried on along the wall, fewer people around and we managed to get some great photos, but were also able to just stop and take it all in. We always travel in April – the weather can be a bit hit or miss but we tend to get many more good days than bad. The main reason we like it is that it’s off season and there aren’t as many people around.
It took about an hour and a half to go around the wall, for the most part on our own or with just a few people. Stunning views of the town and the small harbour. The last time we were here it was cold and blowing a gale – it’s called The Bora – so this time we made the most of it and enjoyed the experience.
They film Game of Thrones here, it’s King’s Landing in the show, so I pushed a kid off the wall and walked around naked.
Lunchtime, went outside to a restaurant that was right on the water, with a view of the fort and the inlet out to the Adriatic Sea. Considering the location it was reasonably priced. I had a pizza with ham, salami and mushroom, Song had grilled calamari. I also had the best coffee of the trip so far, so had a second one because it was so pleasant and relaxing sitting there. Cost $45.
Walked back into the old town, quite a few tourists around but not too bad. Song stopped to look at most of the jewelry shops, I stood outside, happy to soak in the atmosphere, resisting the temptation of another ice cream.
Walked around the old town some more, came across a church with a magnificent sandstone facade, a perfect photo except for the fat, tattooed, bald guy smoking a cigar sat in the middle of the steps playing with his phone. No consideration for any one else, someone I took an immediate dislike to.
Luckily he left after 10 minutes but not before 2 other arseholes sat down and got in the way.
Song found a jewelry stand and bought some stuff.
Headed back to the hotel to pick up the bags, then onto the bus station, takings the bus to Kotor, Montenegro.
I think Croatia is underrated, would definitely recommend Dubrovnik and Split, although I suspect it gets crowded in summer.
The bus was half full (or half empty depending on your point of view), so spread out again.
Ok, you know I said the scenery between Mostar and Dubrovnik yesterday was the best? I lied. Coming out of Dubrovnik the road went along the top of the hill, and the view over the sea and of the old town was completely breathtaking. Perfect.
The road continued along the coast, maintaining the stunning views over the sea, still not a cloud in the sky, then turned inland for a while.
Crossed over the border into Montenegro, then back along the coast.
Remember I said the views out of Dubrovnik were the best? I lied.
The drive from Herceg Novi to Kotor goes along the Bay of Kotor, which is surrounded by hills. The road is right next to the sea and snakes around with the steep hills all around. At one part of the bay there are a couple of small islands with churches on them. The water is blue and still, clear near the shore, and lots of small settlements dotted along the road.
When Song said we should go to the Balkans I said “Um, OK, might be nice”. Once again she booked an incredible trip.
We got off the bus and walked 10 minutes to the old town (or Stari Grad as they are called), past a small marina with some fancy yachts, through the gate into a small town with narrow lanes lined with shops and restaurants, a delightful scene. We followed Google maps, occasionally losing the signal because of the tightly packed buildings, then discovered we were heading the wrong way. The streets were narrow and twisted, and it was hard to find the hotel but eventually we got there. Kotor was very quaint from what we saw winding our way through the streets.
We’d just got in when there was a knock on the door, it was the guest from upstairs, a pleasant lady who asked if we would like to go to dinner together. So we did, had a nice evening chatting (she was born in Jamaica, lived in Canada from when she was 7, has lived in a small town in Northern India for 10 years, is trying to start a business supplying home baking equipment). Every one has a story and an interesting life.
I had black risotto (squid ink), Song had blue fish bruscetta. Both were good, cost about $50.
Walked over the very narrow road to the room.
If you ever go to Dubrovnik (and really, you should go to Dubrovnik), and the weather is good, take a day and go to Kotor by bus, you can do it in a day trip but it’s worth an overnight stay. I don’t know why more people don’t come here – maybe they think it’s a bit under developed, and Montenegro probably isn’t on most lists of places to visit, but maybe it should be. It’s the best coastal scenery I have ever seen, for about 2 hours of the trip it’s just beautiful.
Tomorrow we spend the day in Kotor, there is a fortress at the top of a hill that apparently is worth visiting but it looks like a tough walk. We’ll give it a go.
